Wednesday, April 11, 2007

Tuesday - Talafofo falls and Yokoi's Cave











Monday we spent the entire day jumping from computer to computer, trying to find a piece of technology that would work well enough to update this blog! Thanks to all the wonderfully-polite folks at the Flores Public Library here in Guam, we finally managed to accomplish that task! They have an entire "fleet" of computers here, with internet access and available for public use!

Anyhow, Tuesday we gave up technology to go to Talafofo Falls. Remember a few years ago, when that last Japanese soldier from WWII was found hiding in a cave, not knowing that the war had been over for over 20 years? Well, Talafofo Falls is where he had his "cave". It was a hand dug tunnel and hole in the ground, along the stream just below the falls. There is a plethora of fish, coconuts, breadfruit, mango etc to eat in the surrounding jungle, so it is rather easy to see how someone could live off the land for all those years. It is probably a healthy diet - more so if one had refridgeration in the jungle! Alas, Yokoi's two companions succumbed at some point to food poisoning, so Yokoi was left alone for many years!

Anyhow, this area used to be a local swimming hangout. Several years ago, a Korean investor came in and "developed" a kitsch-y Asian-style tourist trap out of the Falls area. To a stateside American, it seemed rather bizarre! 1) Why wouldn't the U.S. government, or the government of Guam, capitalize on the preservation of this historic site? (2) Why wouldn't Japanese businessmen be the ones to "move in" and immortalize their gallant hero? (3) In this age of eco-tourism, why not keep it "natural", but simply work to preserve it!?

To sum it up, this is a "must see", but is a bit of a mixed message and very "kitsch-y". It's about the money, NOT the ecology and history of the area. It's @$20 to get in, so it is best if you REALLY enjoy the historical significance of this place. They open at 9 am as of this writing, so get there early to avoid the tour buses and waits at the cable car that takes you down to the cave and falls.

You have a 4-car, small 4-seater cable car, which isn't really adequate when a tour bus load of Japanese arrive! Then there is a "feed-the-Asian-duck" stand for $1 per bag. Then an entryway with some interesting photos of Yokoi, who came with his wife to the opening celebration of this park. Then a short stroll to the falls. There is a very small, simple history museum of Guam, with murals on the walls telling the story. It was interesting, but very small and simple.

There is an Asian "house of horrors". We didn't even go into that. It made no sense at all! This was an historical site, with an "fun house" in the middle of it!You had to walk through a dragon's mouth down a flight of stairs.

There is a small, broken down train. There are two "tired looking" kiddie rides, and a whole passle of pigs with their babies roaming the parking lot! (and you could feed those for $1 as well) Just before Yokoi's cave, there is also a junky gift shop, with mostly Asian jewelry, in a location that BEGS for historical books and such!

There is a nice observation tower, in which one can see the rugged jungle and hills surrounding the area. Unfortunately, it was right next to a shooting range! Again, a mixed message. I was afraid of being shot! :-)

Go see it for the falls and cave, but buyer beware! You can't go in the cave (it IS a hole in the ground!) and it's not the original. The last super typhoon got it, so they rebuilt a replica "hole in the ground". You will be finished here in under two hours easily. Still, I found myself wearing Yokoi's shoes, wondering what it would be like to live that long, alone in the jungle!

One might also argue the case that it is a worthwhile visit to experience Asian-style tourism culture!

Certainly, it is an example of America's "melting-pot-merchandising" at its finest!

I hope you can see what I mean by "mixed message" at a site which should be of pure eco-historical significance.

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